Endek is a Balinese typical woven fabric. The uniqueness of Endek is on its motive and pattern which is so varied. Some of Endek motive are take as sacred. It is only can be used for any activities in the temple or other religious ceremonies. There are also Endek motive that can be use for specific kind of people such as a king or gentlehood.
Long time ago this kind of fabric was used by elders and gentlehood people. Endek started to developed since 1985 which was under King Dalem Waturenggong leadership in Gelgel, Klungkung. Endek then evolved in around Klungkung area exactly in Sulang village. Even Endek has been exist since Gelgel Kingdom era, nevertheless Endek start to evolve rapidly in Sulang village after independence era. The development of Endek in Sulang Village starts in 1975 and then it evolve rapidly in 1985 until now.
Endek has few development periods in its production. It can be seen in 1985-1995, Endek has its heyday caused of there was a support from the government. At that time, the production process of Endek has been used non-machine looms. Then in 1996-2006, Endek got decrease caused many rivalry of the same kind of fabric production from many factories that began entered to the market. In 2007-2012 Endek also got decrease.
Fluctuation in decrease is obviously seen in 2008-2010. This thing occurred because the raw material is really hard to get, the expensive price of yarn, and the quality that not suitable with production standard of Endek itself. While the motive and pattern which reflect the nature shades, usually used for social activity or daily activity. It caused those motive is mostly evolve in society. Wastra Endek or Endek fabric is started to undergo modification with other kind of Balinese fabric nowadays. It makes Endek become more vary. At this time, there is a woven rope technique that well evolved in Bali, especially on Endek motives. That technique did by adding some complexion on some parts which called Nyantri. Nyantri Technique is adding color to fabric with bamboo brush strokes like paint on the fabric.
Motives that produced is mostly about flora and fauna and puppet character who appear often in mythology story in Bali. That motive gives a characteristic on Endek itself than other common motives of fabric. Endek also can be mixed with Songket. Songket is a fabric that designed with gold and silver yarn. Giving gold and silver yarn can be done on Endek. Commonly, it used for the edge decoration of fabric. This kind of fabric then recognized as Endek Songket.
Even so, the sacred motives are still maintained and not carelessly used. Commonly, this fabric used for ceremony activities to the temple or used as modern costume like clothes or pants that can be used by everyone.The rapid development of woven rope fabric from Bali become a challenge to Balinese people to maintain its sustainability. Balinese people also have to firm by keep watch out the use of this fabric, especially for sacred motives on it for not to carelessly used for daily outfit because it will break the sacred and culture value of its Endek itself.